Negotiation range
Know in advance where you start, where you want to end and when you walk away. With lines you can use word for word.
Your situation
Not sure yet? Use the fair price check.
From your own check or the inspection. Leave empty if nothing was found.
Your negotiation range
Enter the asking price and our value to see your opening offer, target and limit.
How much can you knock off a used car?
That depends on how far the asking price sits above the fair price and what you find at the viewing. If the asking price is already at market value, there is little room. If you find defects or the APK expires soon, you have concrete arguments to offer less.
The tool uses this rule of thumb:
| Step | How we calculate |
|---|---|
| Reference value | Our private-sale value; for a dealer + 10% |
| Fair price | Reference minus repairs, minus a correction if the APK expires within 2 months |
| Opening offer | 8% below the fair price (private) or 5% (dealer) |
| Target price | The fair price |
| Walk-away price | At most 3% above the fair price, never above the asking price |
Don't know the value yet? Run the fair price check first; it fills in this tool automatically.
Which arguments work when negotiating for a car?
Facts work better than feelings. The strongest argument is a pre-purchase inspection report with repair estimates. The ANWB suggests letting the seller choose: repair before the handover, or lower the price.
- APK expires soon: an APK costs €19 to €70 according to the ANWB, plus any repairs. The APK is the Dutch roadworthiness test.
- No service history: without invoices you do not know what has been done.
- Older diesel: rated Euro 4 or lower it may not enter the low-emission zones of Amsterdam, Utrecht and Arnhem, so there are fewer buyers.
- Mileage: check the tellerstandoordeel (odometer verdict) with the licence plate check. If it is not logical, be very careful.
Is negotiating with a dealer different from a private seller?
Yes. A dealer has less room on price, but you get statutory rights: conformiteit (conformity) cannot be excluded, and a defect within 1 year of delivery is presumed to have existed already. If the price will not move, ask for a fresh APK, a service or extra warranty, and have it written into the sale contract.
From a private seller you usually buy "as viewed and test-driven" and have to prove yourself that a defect already existed. A good inspection beforehand matters more there. Use the inspection checklist at the viewing.
When should you walk away?
With serious safety defects, poorly repaired damage or doubts about the mileage, it is better to walk away, as our inspection guide explains. If the seller refuses an independent inspection, look at another car. And if the seller asks for a deposit before you have seen the car, run the scam check first.
Frequently asked questions
Should I have the car inspected before I make an offer?
Yes, preferably. Ask before you make an offer whether you may have the car inspected. According to the ANWB an inspection costs €150 to €350 and gives you a report with concrete points to negotiate on. If the seller refuses, look for another car.
What if the seller will not lower the price?
Then your limit decides. If the asking price is below your limit, you can buy. If it is above, walk away politely and leave your number. With a dealer you can also ask for a fresh APK, a service or extra warranty instead of a discount.
Do I get a discount for paying cash?
Do not count on it. Since 1 January 2026 a dealer may not accept €3,000 or more in cash, even split into instalments. Between private persons cash is allowed but risky because of counterfeit notes and robbery. A bank transfer at the handover is safer for both sides.
Who pays for transferring the registration?
Usually the buyer. A transfer costs €13.10 in 2026 at the RDW or a registration counter. That is a convention rather than a rule, so you can include it in the negotiation. A dealer may add a service fee, often €25 to €75; ask about it upfront.